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 Post subject: DIY USB 4 PLX (FTW)
PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 3:56 am 
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EDIT: RomRaider supports this now. There is a test release mentioned further down in this thread, but that version of RomRaider is NOT your best option. Instead, use the release candidate build from this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=6801

Any TTL-level serial-to-USB converted can translate from the PLX SM-series sensor signal to any computer. There are several available on the market, and I suggest using Pololu's PL2102-based converter.

My first attempt used a converted from Acroname adapter, and looked like this:
Image

For some reason, Photobucket won't let me upload a picture of the Pololu adapter. But you can find one on their site here: http://www.pololu.com/picture/view/0J75 - after you make two solder connections to it, it will look similar to the picture above, just a little smaller.

Here's the shopping list:

  • From Pololu, get part #391. It's $14.95 as I write this. Here's a link:
    http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/391

  • From Radio Shack, get a headphone plug that's the same size as the SM-AFR cables. I think it's 1/8" but I don't remember exactly. Make sure you get the stereo version, which has a tip/ring/sleeve configuration. A mono plug will only have the tip and sleeve. Basically if you find something that looks like the picture above and appears to be the right size, you've got what you need. If I recall correctly, a package of 2 cost about $5.

  • You should also get something to wrap the interface with when you install it in your car. There's lots of exposed circuitry on it, and you don't want that banging into anything else in your car. You also just don't want it rattling in your dash because that's annoyting. I wrapped mine with electrical tape (lots of it. ghetto.) and zip-tied it in place under my Legacy GT's dashboard. MickeyD suggested heat shrink tubing, which is a much better idea than electrical tape. You can find large-diameter heat shrink tubing at electrical component / surplus shops if you're in a big city. Or just improvise.

Seriously, that's it. With shipping and gas it might cost you $45 total.

Credit where credit is due: some folks down under helped pave the way for this when they figured out how to get an old-school 9-pin serial interface to connect to the SM-AFR:
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php ... PLX+serial

And a kind stranger on NASIOC confirmed my plans before I took the plunge:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1681669

PLX will be happy to sell you one for about $70 last I checked. But where's the fun in that? http://www.plxdevices.com/datalogger.html





Why is the Pololu converter better than the Acroname converter I used at first? The Acroname unit works just fine on its own, but I found that it conflicts with my OpenPort 1.3 and with my OpenPort 2.0. In both cases I have to disable the Acroname converter in order for EcuFlash to find the OpenPort. The Pololu unit works with no conflicts at all.

If the Pololu unit ever goes out of production, the Acroname will still work.
Get part #S23-USB-INT-ASSM. It's $29 as I write this. Here's a link:
http://www.acroname.com/robotics/parts/ ... -ASSM.html

I suggest getting the "assembly" because it includes the 4-conductor wiring harness. They also sell the interface piece without the wire, for a few dollars less, but IMO the convenience is worth it.

But as long as the Pololu converters are still in production you should use theirs rather than Acroname's.

_________________
2005 Legacy GT w/ ATP 3076, IWG, MBC, BCS, BC 272, LC, FFS, OMG
Please don't send me tuning questions via PM - use the forums instead. Thanks!


Last edited by NSFW on Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:36 pm, edited 12 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 3:52 am 
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How to build one:

  • The headphone plug comes apart if you twist. The plastic jacket comes off, and that exposes the surfaces to which you can solder the wires. If you stare at it for a minute, it should become clear which surface connects to the "tip" of the plug, which connects to the "ring" (ignore that one). The big metal arm connects to the "sleeve" of the plug.

  • For the Acroname adapter, plug the wiring bundle into the adaptor as shown in the picture above. Pay close attention to which way the adaptor is oriented and where color wires are connected in which positions. Cut off the connector at the other end of the wires. Now you have four loose wires. Tie two of the wires it a knot around the others to get them out of the way (again, see the picture above).

    For the Pololu Adapter, just locate the 'ground' and 'Rx' thru-holes on the edge of the adapter. You'll have to supply your own wires. Solder a black wire to ground, and a non-black wire to the 'Rx' thru-hole.

  • Solder the black wire to the ground tab on the headphone jack.*

  • Solder the signal wire to the tab that goes to the tip of the headphone jack.*

  • Slide the jacket up the wires to the headphone plug, then screw the jacket and the plug back together.


    The hard part is now done.

  • Open Windows' "Device Manager" and expand the "COM and LPT ports" section.

  • Memorize what you see. There will be a test.

  • Plug the USB cable between the adaptor and your laptop. You should get some messages about finding and installing device drivers, and then "Your new hardware is ready to use."

  • Back in Windows' "Device Manager" there should be a new COM port visible.

  • Insert the headphone plug into the serial output jack on the SM-AFR.

  • If there is black smoke and/or fire, return to step 1. This however is extremely unlikely. You only made two solder connections, and one of them is ground, and the other carries a negligible amount of current. Like, damn near none at all.

  • Run the PlxTest.exe utility that I will attach to this thread real soon now. You need to specify the name of the COM port when you run it, e.g. "PlxTest.exe COM5"

  • You should see a stream of numbers that like AFRs, between the mid 14s and low 15s.

  • Success? If not, post, and I'll see what I can do. Please include pictures.


* These steps are more tedious than they sound at first. You need steady hands. It helps if you have three hands, or at least something you can use to hold the wire and plug steady while you apply heat and solder.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
2005 Legacy GT w/ ATP 3076, IWG, MBC, BCS, BC 272, LC, FFS, OMG
Please don't send me tuning questions via PM - use the forums instead. Thanks!


Last edited by NSFW on Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:40 pm, edited 8 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 10:23 pm
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Success looks about like this:

Code:
WidebandAfr    14.55
WidebandAfr    14.20
WidebandAfr    14.59
WidebandAfr    14.67
WidebandAfr    14.59
WidebandAfr    14.67
WidebandAfr    14.67
WidebandAfr    14.67
WidebandAfr    14.67
WidebandAfr    14.71
WidebandAfr    14.75
WidebandAfr    14.71
WidebandAfr    14.75
WidebandAfr    14.75
WidebandAfr    14.75


Code is attached. Kascade, is there any chance you can integrate this with RomRaider?

I haven't done an java coding in forever but I think this will port very easily. With one exception - I used a nullable type, which I don't think java has, but if you change PlxSensorId from a struct to a class it should work just fine.


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_________________
2005 Legacy GT w/ ATP 3076, IWG, MBC, BCS, BC 272, LC, FFS, OMG
Please don't send me tuning questions via PM - use the forums instead. Thanks!


Last edited by NSFW on Wed Apr 08, 2009 12:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:52 am 
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Looks good.


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:53 pm 
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Very nice work!

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download my ROM


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 8:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 12:09 am
Posts: 644
Location: Brisbane, Australia
I have tried to integrate your plx code into romraider. It is not yet totally complete (currently only AFR is available) and I think I may have to change some of the connection code, but hopefully it is functional.

You can download it in zipped format from here: REMOVED, SEE BELOW!. Use the included run.bat to start it.

Any feedback is appreciated.

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Paul.
------------------------------------
MY04 Forester XT (Aus. spec)


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:26 am
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this is great! i have been waiting for this for awhile now.. i was thinking about just giving in and buying a supported WB02.

thanks for all the hard work guys. :D


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:44 am 
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Sweet! I'll take this for a spin later tonight.

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2005 Legacy GT w/ ATP 3076, IWG, MBC, BCS, BC 272, LC, FFS, OMG
Please don't send me tuning questions via PM - use the forums instead. Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 3:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 10:23 pm
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The good news is, I'm getting reasonable AFR numbers from the new PLX code.

The bad news is, I'm getting random numbers for any SSM parameters I try to log. At the bottom of the RomRaider window it shows a Cal Id that I've never seen before (A2ZJsomething).

Previously I was using 0.5.1 RC 4, build 174, and when I go back to that one I get good data for the SSM parameters and it shows the right Cal Id (A2WC510N).

I was using the same logger.xml for both, could that be the problem? I mean, does the newer build require a newer logger.xml? I think I was using the most recent release from Merchgod but it's been a while so I am not 100% certain.

_________________
2005 Legacy GT w/ ATP 3076, IWG, MBC, BCS, BC 272, LC, FFS, OMG
Please don't send me tuning questions via PM - use the forums instead. Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 6:47 am 
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Posts: 644
Location: Brisbane, Australia
oops i forgot to remove some test code that acts as a dummy serial connection and generates random data for the logger so i can test it without being connected to the car.

i'll sort that out...

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Paul.
------------------------------------
MY04 Forester XT (Aus. spec)


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:06 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 12:09 am
Posts: 644
Location: Brisbane, Australia
try this one

[link removed - see the first post for an updated link]

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Paul.
------------------------------------
MY04 Forester XT (Aus. spec)


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 1:55 am 
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Downloading it now....

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2005 Legacy GT w/ ATP 3076, IWG, MBC, BCS, BC 272, LC, FFS, OMG
Please don't send me tuning questions via PM - use the forums instead. Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 4:20 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 10:23 pm
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It works! :D

_________________
2005 Legacy GT w/ ATP 3076, IWG, MBC, BCS, BC 272, LC, FFS, OMG
Please don't send me tuning questions via PM - use the forums instead. Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 12:09 am
Posts: 644
Location: Brisbane, Australia
nice. can you post a sample of your log?

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Paul.
------------------------------------
MY04 Forester XT (Aus. spec)


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 Post subject: Re: DIY USB 4 PLX (WIP)
PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:26 pm 
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NSFW, good work. Have you consider wrapping it in thick electrical shrink wrap? I saw them at Fry's. I think jazzymt uses something similar for his aux-in mod to protect the circuitry.


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