RomRaider

Also, for a throttle kick, I'm planning to rig up a separate valve to open and bypass the thottle body altogether rather than physically kick the throttle open. I'm thinking this will illiminate the need to reset the ecu every time you enable it and reestablish 0% throttle position. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Hi!
If I have same car setup as group N original rom but without air restrictor, what should I tune only? Fuel map to make it richer?

There's a base idle ignition timing table that has 3 rows in it. one is for stock tps voltage; one is for a .74v throtle kick and the the third row is for a .94v throttle kick. If you take a look at the values in this table, you'll see that they are vastly different based on tps voltage. By instituting a "throttle kick" via a valve, the ecu has no way of altering the ignition timing since the tps voltage is at the stock value. Does this make sense?

Went to the track tonight... Bandimere 5800ft elevation

Didn't go well....

I'm running a southbend stage 2 endurance clutch.. big POS. It's the dual friction disc that is the problem. My friend Jack from Jack's transmissions (evo / dsm) warned me about this clutch after I had put it in. He was right about what they can do....

Launched hard my first run, welded the disc to the flywheel ... couldn't shift of course, had a 1.65 60ft.

I was able to break it free doing what he told me to do, buck the crap out of the car... it finally popped loose.. I went head and made 2 more passes leaving like a weeny.... best of 11.71 @ 125mph. Trap wasn't as high as it should have been either, the car only weighs 3200 with me in it on the scale there, so I'm not making the power I should be either... was hoping for 126-127... and as light as my car turned out to be, it should have been all of that if not more. I'm not running a ton of timing by any means, but I'm not sure where the missing power is, don't think I'm going to get another 20-30whp there alone... was making about 27.5psi of boost relative to sea level..... and now I have to find the money for a real clutch

Pretty bummed.... my theoretical goal of running 10's at this elevation just got harder....

I does... but anyway, I would recommand everyone here running std engines not to exceed the maximum kick allowed by the throttle stop screw (resulting in something in between 0.78 and 0.84v opening voltage as far as I remember).

I'm at .78v and have various issues from it. Nothing hazardous just annoying as hell.... Waiting on Jason to get back to Ed on them...
The car sounds nice idling though. hahahaha I've had neighbors call the cops claiming my car was too loud idling. lol

What is the reason for this, I am curious where the damage would be? I think I Killed a 205 playing with spark-cut and antilag, with the head off the intake valves on #1 seem really loose and leaked a ton of air.

Cant seem to get the tic switch working. I tapped into the wire at pin a17 (black with white stripe) but it doesn't seem to make any difference. I tested it and it switches to ground just as it should. Have it set to switch antilag on and off just for testing purposes and antilag wont turn off.

Also, after using my defogger switch instead, I just realized that map 2 seems to be the default map. After all the changes I made that seemed to get no results, I finally realize why. I've been changing map 1 when its actually using map 2. Now I'm getting somewhere. Anyone know what could be wrong with my tic switch?

BTW, school money just arrived. I will be making my donation now.

The above is definitely true with the injector scale and timing. This isnt the case with the boost maps though. Holy crap my car runs amazing now!

To make long story short, the more throttle opening you have, the more antilag you get.
This doesn't really put that much stress on the turbo, but more air (even with a constant fueling) generates more heat from the exhaust valves to the turbine entry, from a certain point you just start to melt down valve seats, then valves and turbine...

On group N (cable throttle) rally cars, the als is generally set up to a maximum 0.80v throttle opening for an efficient thus safe als effect.

Anyone know what could be wrong with the tic switch?

you can't tap into the wire, you have to cut it completely and wire it straight to the switch. You can log the "AT Vehicle ID" parameter under "switches" in romraider logger, it should switch between 1 and 0 with your physical switch.


Jason

It is always 1. Doesn't Change when switched. Wire is cut. Tested with the harness unplugged, the switch makes a ground and takes away the ground just as it should. Is it possible that this function only works with certain ECUs? AS Far as I know this it's just a regular 03 ECU, but I bought the car used back in 06 so who really knows. Car was modified and returned to stock when I bought it. Could be an automatic ECU for all I know? I remember reading that trans logic should be disabled but I tried it both ways anyway.

This pinout has pin A17 listed as small light switch. I read that A17 was tic. I enabled headlight switch for antilag and the switch works now. Which pin is TIC?

http://www.northursalia.com/modificatio ... rxpin.html