RomRaider

Hey Chris,

The intake i have in mind is $420 (Cosworth) and they claim it adds about 15KW without anything else. Yeah i have noticed a few places that don't touch the intake and I think MRT didn't change the intake becasue they didn't want to do the extra tuning. I also want the sound that a pod intake makes, I might hold of on it until i have the exhaust all done first.

When you make a change log paramaters that would be effected by the change, in the case of AVCS I haven't really tuned AVCS too much myself so maybe ask some of the other guys as well but i would do some logs of AF ratios, boost and primary wastegate and i always log these as well after any change: Load, Rpm, feedback Knock, throttle opening and vehicle speed. You would do some driving and log before and after the change to the AVCS table. This will allow you to see if it is affecting boost or your AF ratios and in what gear/speed, load and RPM.

In my map i have gotten rid of the emmisons part of the AVCS table and added some timing in the top right of the table so that it would help the turbo spool quicker.

I'm thinking of buying a turbo XS from Tuspeed or whoever i can get it the cheapest from, the hardware install i will get them to do as well, its cheap and i need them to make insert the bung in the downpipe for the wideband.
I have heard another car like ours with the turbo XS full system and it sounded REALLY good, not overaly loud as well.

To tune the exhaust you would need monitor the AF's and boost, i would start by zero-ing the WGDC table so that its only running natural boost and then lower the timing a couple of degrees over the whole range and then work from there. Let me know if you are interested in getting one as well, we might be able to get a better deal if we both get it at the same time.

If you use the latest tune, make sure you download the lastest version from this thread as i keep updating the file.

Thanks,

Dennis

well the only thing holing the stock air intake back would be the restrictiveness off it. Do they say that it adds 15kw on our car? it could be on a older model that has a really bad air intake. ill have to do some more research maybe im wrong, but ive read that our air intake is pretty good. and at most people replaced the air filter as we have.

in regards to the logging i have been doing some but i cant make sence of the numbers. so what i should do is log and compare the results that what they should be in the tune, so say for example i want a AF ratio of 10 and im only getting 9 i should bump it up to 10.5 or something and see if the real would result reaches 10?

Ive looked up some videos of the exhaust it does look pretty good, cabin noise sounded alright in the videos too, so yeah if theres a discount i would defiantly be up for that.

I uploaded your latest map and did acouple logs. The boost looks good, its hitting the target boost pretty nicely. however i noticed the AF ratio is abit lean compared to the map. in the map you have it at around 10.5 full load and i was loging 11.15. have i logged this incorrectly or do i need to change that?

I edited the logs so you can see what i mean.

the ecu af sensor only goes as low as 11.15 you need a wideband to log in more detail than that, don't worry it would be hitting the right af as long your car is stock.

ahh right, ill have to get one with the new exhaust. ive been driving on your new power tune for a day now and it feel abit slugish compared to your previous one, i think. im gonna try increasing the bosst alittle low down.

Hi Chris,

I think you might be feeling the new rom is sluggish becasue i have changed the DBW tables to make the car easier to drive in traffic, this would account for the car feeling sluggish at low accelrator pedal input. you could use the old DBW tables if you want but the new ones make the car much easier to drive in traffic and you still have more power than before you just have to use a bit more pedal. Its a personal choice really, try it out for a little while and if you want to change it back let me know and i'll make another rom for you. either way i assure you the new rom is more powerfull, especially up above 4500 Rpm

Also i notticed your logs had a lot of uneeded data, you should only log what you need other wise the resolution of the log is too low to be usefull. check out the faqs about logging for more info.

for instance to log boost i only log: load 1 byte, manifold presurre realtive 4 byte (psi), primary wastegate, rpm and throttle opening angle %, vechicle speed and maybe boost error as well. with this i can see how much boost i'm making at what rpm,load and throttle % and gear/speed. Just log for one goal at a time.

can you do a log of these and do some 3rd and 4th gear WOT pulls, i'm interested to see if your car is near target boost. as i think the rom needs a little work on WGDC's and turbo dynamics. I am getting slight boost error which i'm trying to iron out.

Oh ok thanks mate, that would make sence about the DBW i didnt bother to check that. i guess it just felt different.

I can do some boost logs and post them and we can compare too see what happening. have you tried going for any more boost. i wonder how much this car is capable of while still being safe. Ive seen maps with people running bigger turbos and more boost. i realise this turbo is only small and wouldn't be as efficient.

Have you found out any pricing for the exhaust? i think the current one on the car is holding it back alot!

Also have you done any other mods to your car? i put in pedders springs and whiteline front and rear sway bars and its improved handling alot. the car no longer rolls around and looks alot better abit lower too. i dont think im gonna even change the wheels anymore, but my next set of tyres ill get 225's which they are using on the 09 on the same wheel.

Hi Guys,

Chris - Funny you mention this one, I changed the DBWs back to the stock this morning. Definitely brings the life back in at lower throttle. I can see why Helix changed it but I think I prefer a gradual progression. Felt a little bit too much like a power on off switch.

Helix - Map its running nicely on my car, thanks! No knock at all.

I'm hitting around 14.3 boost holds for a bit then starts to tapper down. I'll run a few logs as well and post them up if that will help.

I'm now finally starting to get a grip on what i'm looking at now so hopefully I can contribute some changes soon.

When it comes to exhausts I'm thinking the Stealth system from TurboXS, my wife will kill me if I get a loud one! This may work for you Helix as I think the full TBE from TurboXS is pretty much the same bar the rear muffler. So we can hit stage 2 down the track.

Cheers Rod

let me know if you need me to change the DBW tables back and i'll post one with the last Rom's dbw tables, also i'm working on making this new Rom smoother at the mo should be ready soon, Post some logs so i can see what is happening on you're cars.

I got a performance alignment done and it felt a LOT better after that, it took away a lot of understeer. Also i found having 2 psi more on the back tires makes the rear a bit harder which also helps with understeer. I'm getting a rear sway bar next when i get the time but i want to focus on power for the moment.

I got a price from turbo xs and a Melbourne reseller of $1200 a few weeks ago for a full system, or it was $699 each for the stealth back/cat back. Just ring turbo xs and they will give the dude's number. or you could use Tuspeed from coburg have bought stuff of them and they seem alright.

I have pushed out 17psi on some days out of the turbo when trying to go for maximum boost, but i have found that 15psi is the sweet spot, and then you can get power out of timing and fuel. My rom is still a bit mild you could go harder in all directions but i wanted to have a rom that is good for everyday and not have to worry about blowing the engine. There is also a lot of room for more aggressive mapping in the higher rpm ranges.

If you're not hitting the 15psi target you might have to adjust your WGDC tables, i'm overshooting that at the moment but i'm in Melbourne(cold weather and at sea level). Also I have a GFB BOV on which may be affecting the boost i'm getting out of my WGDC values as it is meant to allow you to hold higher boost easier and increase response(i don't know how though). I replaced my stock one becasue i was getting weird boost Level dips when on max boost and thought it may have been the stock valve opening a little. Also have you replaced the stock air filter? it makes a differnce.


i Have heard from one of my friends in Sydney that has tuned a few 2008 wrx's that there is a lot of power to be gained by replacing the intake and going for a pod. He advised me its the first thing i should replace, so i don't really know who to trust anymore on this. I think i might just buy a Cosworth one and try it out.

Let me know if i can help with anything.

1200 sounds pretty good i might have to give them a call. that wouldnt include install though would it?

Ill just copy the dbw table over from your previous map. ive got some logs i just need to sort them out. i also wanna do some logs at 80 kmph and 100 kmph and see if i can reduce some fuel usage as i do alot of freeway driving.

And i did my research with the sway bars before buying and everyone recommends front and rear sway bars for this car.

How much did the BOV cost you?

Chris-

$1200 was for the parts only, install would be cheap by a local mechanic i think <$200.

for free way driving its going to be in load ranges of .6 to 1 and in the 2800 to 3500rpm range i had a look at this myself at one stage and found that by removing the AVCS rubbish that was in this range the car had better mileage. you could raise the timing a bit in this range as well i think, i never really tried it out. let me know how you go i might try it as well.

i think the rear bars make the biggest difference i'm a bit broke at the mo so have to wait.

BOV was about $280 from Tuspeed. its very easy to install only takes about 3 minutes, then you just have to play with it a bit to find the best spring setting, and vent setting if you want the noise, i have it down to only a few mm gap so it only makes a very quite stock sounding vent noise. You don't have to tune anything at all on the rom for it. You should notice the car holds boost a bit easier.

BTW i have updated the rom again to latest version, this should hold the boost closer to targets now.

Im confused as to how many Ignition timing maps there are. Theres 4 in total do you know when it uses which? From my understanding retarding the ignition timing adds more power, so igniting it more deg before top dead center? wouldnt that improve fuel econemy too? or is it better to have it closer to top dead center for fuel econemy because in the cruise map its at about 20 deg and in non cruise its 40?

Also ive noticed in the DBW map the requested torque drops off after about 4000 rpm at 100% throttle. So this means that we are never getting any power after 400 rpm because the boost is related to requested torgue.

chris -

u only need to edit the base timing primary non-cruise and copy it to the avcs related table as well, you could edit the knock correction advance instead but its easier to do it this way.

I hadn't looked in to the dbw table affecting boost after 4800rpm i was alright with the boost i had been getting after that rpm, i will have a look in to it and fix it for the next revision i upload.

hey helix hows it going. ive been doing alot of research and some logs with the ignition timing. ive noticed that your igintion timing is pretty much stock standard and there are some tunes out there running higher boost with more advance so i think we can make alot of power gains in that area. ive already started making some changes with good results so far.

Also im working on getting some more mileage cruising. ive had alook at the requested torque at 80 and 100-110 kmph and what im doing is decreasing boost and then leaning out the AF mixture as well as advancing some timing. at 100 kmph the RT is only about 70 so this shouldnt effect performace.

Also im looking to get my hands on one of the TXS exhausts soon and then a VF52 which is a direct bolts on for our car its running on the 09+ wrx's. ive read you can put it on without making any changes all the hoses and everything plug straight on

Hi Chris,

Which tunes are you looking at that have higher boost and more timing, i want to see what they are using. in my tune the lower half of the load range is stock, i have only tuned after 2g/rev. there is room for more advanced timing but not boost i don't think, once you go over about 14.8 psi our turbo is not very good after that. Also really hard to get high boost after 5000 RPM.

the AF when you are cruising is already set to 14.7 if you have a look at the load on the car when you crusie, so you can't increase that so only the timing in the cruise load range can be increased, but its already pretty high.

Have a look at the stock 2009 wrx tune, they made the tune a bt better and increased economy on the 09. I have used the 09 tables on my car before and it was much more responsive under low loads, but i was getting a little knock so i went back to the 08 tables. try the 09 tables out just match the boost and load for the tables. i wasn't interested in low load ranges then, i might have another look at it now though and see if i can iron the kinks out of my 09 based tune!

Post your current tune i'll attach mine to this post.