RomRaider

I will run WOT logs next chance I get.

I did run some regular driving logs and it is basically the same story...knock at low load low RPM. So I started looking into my theory that it is rubbing/rattling from the FMIC that causes the Knock. While at idle, I managed to recreate 3 knock events..just by pushing the piping at points where it rubs.

Here is the log that captures the knock at idle. Knock 15, 16 and 17 were with the hood up and my tinkering with the piping.

That's very interesting. It most likely is just noise.

Knock sum is really handy because it is unfiltered data so you can see what the ecu perceives as knock without looking for timing drops.

Knock sum is an excelent way of monitoring knock.

Assuming I cannot quiet the rattles, is there anyway to get rough knock correction to ignore the low load/low rpm knock? .

Yes, we can adjust it.

Have you tried wrapping the pipes in a silicone hose to damp the chattering?

Do you have any more WOT logs? I'ld like to update the boost tables before it gets too cold.

I am looking into getting "header wrap" or something that will cushion and also lower the underhood temps.

I have not had a chance to do any WOT runs, I will try my best to get them tonight.

Thanks again.

Latest logs, they are labeled at the end of the log with the gear.

I did a 2nd gear 2000-redline:

a 4th gear 2000-3000


a 5th gear 2000-3000

Try this map, I adjusted the WGDC so that you can hit target boost in the mid-high rpm range.

Timing was slightly adjusted.

Thanks Mickey, I will try to log tonight.

In an effort to learn as much as I can, I am comparing this rev to the previous one and I see that you reduced a slight bit of timing in the area where the knock occured last and you slightly decreased WG in the lower range and increased WG duty in the mid and higher ranges. That all makes perfect sense to me.

Is there anything else you changed that I should note? I am trying to understand as much as I can.

That was it.

After you hit target boost, we'll evaluate whether or not you can keep increasing boost.

Here is the latest 3rd gear log..maf looks a little lower, but otherwise it looks great.

I also adjusted my BOV, I was getting some compressor surge at low boost. It is fine now.

Target boost isn't logged in the log above - is there another way of being able to tell if ppl are hitting targets or not? Some calculation that I have missed?


edit: my bad, I guess you are comparing actual manifold pressure to target boost in the ROM?

I think MAF was lower because it is warmer. Look at the WOT WGDC between 2000 and 2200 rpm. You can calculate IAT from the WGDC compensation.

You can get a little bit more performance out of your tune, but you might as well save it for you next upgrade.

I would do a 2nd gear log from 2000 to redline plus a 4th and 5th gear log from 2000 to 4000 rpm at the same temperature. This will give you a baseline to go from when you go to your next iteration. Post up those logs too for our reference.

Your next mod should be a WBO2. You can borrow an LM-1 or buy a new one and sell it after you finish tuning your MAF and/or injectors.

Then if you want to keep your VF40 or upgrade to a VF46, I would get an Invidia catless downpipe plus a 1.0 mm restrictor pill. You will need to set WGDC = 0 for this and slowly increase WGDC until you hit target boost.

Thanks for all your help with this Mickey, I am very happy with the tune.

I will start looking into a WBO2..

Do you think it is worth getting the smaller pill and WBO2 if I plan on sticking with the stock gutted DP for right now? I thiink the car is already too loud..an aftermarket DP will make it even louder.

In an effort to keep noise levels down, I am also thinkng of ditching the Typhoon and trying to use the stock airbox..maybe.

Thanks again.

NM...I just realized I need the DP bung to use the WBO2...therefor I need an aftermarket DP.

The LM-1 sticks into the tailpipe.

It's a lot more expensive but is easily shared amongst several enthusiasts.