RomRaider

Mods on car:

EJ205
VF34
Pinks, walbro
Injen CAI
SSAC TMIC
B&B catted DP to HKS Ti
STi uppipe
Hallman MBC
RA trans

Tuning Notes:

65 degrees out 70 humidity, 2 passengers

11.0->10.8 AFR with stock maf settings, tuned via scalar and no latency (aka AFR targets are low 10s high 9s), 28.5 degree advance peak up top, 93 octane with 10% E10, sea level. 20.5 psi coming tonight A form of this map (same fuel and boost, used a near stock timing map) made 315whp on ICS's dynojet in 90 degree weather with no fans. junior made me a nice wot fuel map and that was it. Timing map has been adjusted since and boost is lower at 19.3. I made heavy changes to the part throttle and tip in and lower load fueling and timing.

I would post the map but not sure how JR feels since it IS still his fueling map until i can scale the MAF a bit.

log and graph included.

Point of this thread: the car feels awesome, makes awesome curve on the dyno, and makes feels smooth predictable power even heatsoaked. Although it looks according to my graph that my timing curve could use a little work in the midrange after spool up to make a smoother curve. Let me know your thoughts as I will probably work on it tonight.

Thanks

looks real good, lot of timing, but showing no knock!
good tune there.

the timing map and fuel were made prior to this, this is the first pull - i'd say it was pretty damn spot on!

later a 4th gear top end pull resulted in a half a degree of timing pull.

With such an aggresive timing map and such rich fueling, I'd move to a dyno to continue tuning.

You are running an extreme amount of timing for a "Stage 4" car running on pump gas...have you tuned for MBT? Otherwise, I would imagine you could remove some timing (and fuel) with no or little power loss.

Edit: Your MAF also seems low for your setup and being an unmodified table.

couple things to consider

before tuning on stock box on a crappy tuned map @ 19 psi with the same exact setup i made 292 g/s and 4.63 Maf, the injen cai throws off everything else as far as single

we tuned the car to 12.4 and put it to 10.9 and lost 3 whp ill take the cooler EGTS anyday

i dont see that as extreme timing, ive tuned a few other stage 4 cars with similar timing.

i would be extraordinarily careful with 28* at redline on a stage 4. people run that kind of advance with race gas, not e10 93.

how do you know the car isn't knocking? i've picked up plenty of light knock on my utec which the ecu is completely oblivious to. when pushing the limits hard you should have a secondary knock listening system for backup/verification. my detcans are indispensable.

as a side note, your car seems to be breathing quite well. can you datalog corrected MRP and engine load? if you can, make a contribution to this thread: http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

good luck
ken

Hi ken,

its bren I think i am going to end up running more boost and less overall timing under high load

Ive seen more then one stage 4 with 28 degrees at redline, in fact i saw turbo mike got his to 33 by 7400. His car moved up top. Many tuners have commented on my cars ability to take timing. I think the ability to do this lies in the rich afr. There is another thread commenting on someone going from mid 11 on a dyno to 11.0 and freeing up a degree of timing, making more power, and not losing any from the afr. I think some of you may be on the other side of the fence as far as high boost, leaner afr, and minimal timing. It is true that motor may last a bit longer, but this similar setup and tune was dyno verified all the way to 7400 many times with detcans at ICS. And it makes power and 315whp on this dyno in a bugeye went 115 mph recently.

Call it aggressive but we ran the car back to back 6+ times with no fans on the already hot ebay tmic and it lost 1 whp with identical curves by the end of the pulls with NO timing pull. Maybe my car just takes to the timing really well, i really don't see this as ridiculously dangerous. I have my knock sensors reading till 6800 (last timing advance column setting) and have done 4th and 5th gear pulls with no problems, even with the stock wrx hood scoop. The person who showed me this technique of tuning is VERY VERY known and his cars make extraordinary power and last quite long (380whp fp green 205s lasting 3+ years)

So maybe this IS the more ideal tuning style people should mimic since I learned from this visit that fuel target ISN'T really affected in horsepower gain on subarus but more as far as lower EGTs (as we've learned from other data on this forum)

also ken correct mrp is in that log along with load (except my load is all thrown off from the lack of maf scaling) so i dont know if i am any help.

also can someone put me in airboy's spreadsheet? i FAILED at it at work

i would be really really interested to see this timing map.

its not that weird

its a stock ish timing map, with it scaled so all DAs are 10, with more timing in the lower end of the rpm range across and a little more base timing under full load

Its true... I WALKED AWAY from a lot of "faster" cars than mine by shifting at 7500 with lots of timing. My car made 321 wheel @ 7300 on the stock motor.... with 34 degrees of timing.(modded stockers, walboro, ssac tmic, catless, tbe, p&p vf39, thats it) I backed it off a little from there for street use, but it will do it... I cant tell you that its safe, and I know a lot of cars cant do it at all, but some of them will.

Mike what afr and boost did you run past 6000? Time to make my map do that, gimme a call your phone is off

i too am interested in seeing this map if possible

I would post the map but not sure how JR feels since it IS still his fueling map until i can scale the MAF a bit.

if someone shows me how to screenshot i can post the timing map for sure other then that its pretty simple, MBC + fuel

Take a screen shot by pressing alt-print screen (for the active window) or print screen (for the entire screen). This copies it to the clip board.

Open your image editor of choice, and paste the clip board contents.

Edit as you see fit (crop or whatever). Save as a .jpg.

Upload the finished .jpg to your favorite hosting site (photobucket or whatever).

Viola!