RomRaider

Wow that is awesome, something I want to do myself.

Could u at some point, please make a complete how to guide with lots of pics

Thx

Thanks! That's what I was trying to do with this thread.

All I did was follow the diagrams for the LC-1 and panel meter. I drilled a hole in the back of the ash tray insert for the wires to come through. Here is a picture in the daylight, to see how well it just sits in there:



Please overlook the chip on the corner. I was in a hurry drilling said hole and broke this insert, but I'm hoping I can find another without much hassle.

For power and ground, I just used the plug that went to the cig lighter outlet. I didn't want to hack into the stock harness and like the idea of being able to easily revert back.

Any other questions just ask, I'd be glad to help!

update:

On day three after the install, I started getting weird output on my LED display. Last night I unhooked it and logged using the digital output, and got the same weird intermittent display in Logworks.

So I'm guessing the Cobb DP puts the sensor too close to the turbo, and it took me 3 days to fry it. I was able to update to the beta firmware for the LC-1 last night, and it went fine, so I'm assuming my wire job for the controller itself is ok. We shall see.

Anybody have input towards a solution? I don't know if a heat sink would help on a new sensor, if there's a tougher sensor I can get that won't die, or if the bung is just too damned close and I will not be able to keep a constant display going.

My sensor is in the exact same spot as cobb puts there, and I have had no problems in 2 months of use. I would pull the sensor out and disconnect it from the rest of the cable, then recalibrate it again according to the manual.

wow just realized this thread is from august...

did you ever get it working again?

I recently tuned two stock turbo STIs, one with a Cobb DP and one with another tubular stainless bellmouth, wrapped with a bung added at almost the same exact same spot as the Cobb ~4" away from the flange.

Twice, after a full throttle redline gear pull on the "other" downpipe, the wideband read erratically. It would jump from 14.7:1 AFR to ~19-20% O2. The first time we had to pull over, pull the sensor out, it looked pretty clean rather than having a slight fine black powder on it, put it back in. I got a error 04 heater pump open on the LM-1 display screen for a while, but finally after another 5 minutes it was ok. The car was also running on the lean side (~11.8:1 from 5500-6500), and we had less problems later after I added fuel and brought it back down to ~11.4-11.5 and 11 at redline. The car also had a silencer in the exhaust which seemed to be coking the car slightly.

It was fine the entire time with the Cobb, though that car wasn't running lean when I started. I think since the bung sits on a snout it may affect heat. Just anecdotal at this point, everything was not the same, but it may be the Cobb placement is ok due to the design, and/or due to not being wrapped. I'm sure the lean running contributed as well because after richening up the non-Cobb car only had the symptom repeat near the end of tuning it, even though we made several more redline pulls trying to get boost to hold.

I'm making a heatsink per Innovate's manuals for the future on all O2 bung placements that close to the turbo. I've never had any troubles with the bung from 20-30" away from the turbo.

I'm looking to try this DIY project and was curious as to what you input to the display. It seems that the display is reading in AFR and I thought the LC-1 would only output 0-5v. How do you convert? Is that something with the panel or the LC-1 out puts that I'm missing in the programming? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Kyle

The LC-1's default 0-5V analog outputs are programmable.

You set up the panel meter to display tenths of a volt by moving the decimal point one place to the right. You then program one of the LC-1's analogue outputs so that 0.735 volts corresponds to an AFR of 7.35:1 and so that 2.000 volts corresponds to an AFR of 20.0:1.

Clever, I really feel I should have grasped that concept earlier

another update for the thread that won't die:

I believe the root problem of my funky readings had to do with voltage offsets affecting the LC-1 controller. I borrowed a friend's sensor and got the same results. Don't ask me why it worked ok for a short while, but oh well...

I ended up converting from a permanent install / gauge arrangement, to a temporary / tuner setup. I put battery clamps on the LC-1 and just use it with my laptop. I've been using it with the original sensor in this manner ever since with zero problems. I like being able to use it on other cars now, too.

Anybody that wants to purchase the panel meter setup, just shoot me a PM.

I did the same thing with another LC1 that I tune other car's with. It works great, I hate the innovate logger.

Gabe

Very nice DIY!

These is great pix, does anyone have moer pix of were they installed the bun plug?

I'm fussy about drilling onto my nice shiny SS downpipes, so want an idea of where u guys are mounting them.

Sorry to hijack

Cheers
Kosti

I have mine in the rear oxy hole...... no drilling!

I just did one on a 05 STi, the owner was adiment about keeping the rear oxy where it was and having the wideband out of view but not on the bottom of the car. So I put it right behind the axle, with the sensor on the rearward side of the downpipe. Kind of a good spot, out of the way, dont see it, and very very well protected from everything.

Thanks Mike,

Now in order not to hijack thread, please look at this thread and post your idea's and pictures.

topic2741.html

Thanks
Kosti