RomRaider

First: Very few, if any, cars will be able to use this map as is. Do not flash this map and forget about it. Do not use this map without verifying fueling using a wideband. Do not use this map as is with any boost control solenoid (stock, GM, or etc.) – mbc only.

Map started as MY 2002 USDM WRX A4SGE01C

Mods:
3” catless turboback exhaust
Catless uppipe
Ported factory exhaust mani
SSAC top-mount intercooler
Port and polished throttle body
Ball and spring manual boost controller (set at 19psi for this map)
Snorkus delete
K&N panel filter (lightly oiled)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
BKK7E (one step colder) copper plugs, gapped to 0.030"

OEM intake box, turbo, and injectors

Notes:
The factory MAF has been scaled to be accurate for my application. On my car this results in long term fuel trims B-D within 2%. Your car may vary.
Per cylinder timing compensation has been removed.
Closed loop delay is zero’ed
LC is set at 3500rpm
Initial IAM is set at 16. I have not seen an IAM drop on my car in almost a year. If IAM were to drop to 14 the map switches to failsafe fueling.
Timing advance is my re-scaled version of the stock advance map.
93 octane

I will post my 22psi map once I finish ironing out the higher load timing changes.

dude, what's your IDC like?

High

You should have seen it when I was targeting a 10.4 AFR instead of 11.4.

I'm guessing >100% IDC from 6000 rpm onwards!

Any update to this map?

I'm running a 22psi version now but it's still not ready for me to share it. I have been far too busy lately to work on it at all.

Still waiting for the 22psi! Running your current map and it's awesome. I've since installed VF39 however I still want to try this map out on my new setup.

I ran 21psi on the stock turbo using the T-flip mod. I had a pnp turbo but I doubt that made a big differance.

Dynoed 242whp on my highest.

sorry for the question..

Why we can´t used with any solenoid. Only with mbc?

The boost control tables in this map are not tuned in conjunction with the rest of the map. I believe the boost tables are from when I used a GMBCS however they should not be trusted at all because I may have changed some values in those tables after switching to the MBC. As far as I am concerned a MBC is the only way to get the boost curve necessary to safely and efficiently run this map.

In reality, this map should really just be used for reference and NOT flashed to another car.

Also- the 22psi map is ready, I just need to get it off of my car because I recently lost my laptop's hard drive. Hopefully I will have it up soon.

???

An MBC is anything but safe. What happens when the ECU see's knock and decides the motor needs less boost than the MBC is set for? What happens when airflow demanded by the MBC setting is outside of the surge/stall range of the turbo? Does an MBC compensate for changing ambient air temps, pressure and altitude? Does it taper boost at high rpm to prevent the turbo assembly from over speeding? If one want's super fast spool, control AND SAFETY a properly sized EWG and ECU controlled BCS it the only way to do it...

Tuning boost is easy folks, it just takes a little time to dial in your BCS. It's not as fast and simple as slapping an MBC on your car and calling it tuned, but simple is not always the best way to tune our cars. Keep the OEM BCS and tune it properly. You can run 22 psi on the OEM BCS. Even better get the plug and play Prodrive (now H.O.A) and run 22 psi with lower duty cycles. In both cases your ECU retains full control of boost and can adjust it as necessary to protect your motor from damage. (I run 22-23 psi on my car, albeit with 550 cc injectors...)

Not trying to be a basher but there are noobs here that will copy what you're doing just because you posted it. MBC's are not the way to go on our street driven cars. Eventually it's going to get the motor into trouble.

-soobaviator

Hang out on NASIOC much? You and everyone else over there think MBC's are the devil. This is not the thread for this discussion however MBC's are completely safe when the tune is setup for an MBC.



When my ECU sees knock it pulls timing. Granted, it will not pull more then 2* of FBKC in any driving conditions that I will put it through. Also, my map switches to the failsafe fueling map on any IAM drop.



Since when do mbc's "demand airflow"?


No but it doesn't need to.



My boost tapers just fine from my WG being blown open, something that will happen with any BCS as well. Bottom line is that I've been driving my car with its current setup for almost 2 years and 20k mi now with zero problems. I've been running the same stock td04 at 22psi during this time and it still works just fine. I know I am severely reducing the turbo's life but that does not concern me because replacements can be had for so cheap. I also know that what I am doing is not for everyone. I datalog and monitor my car regularly. As for those who are "slapping on an mbc" without understanding what they are doing, their car is in Darwin's hands.

EDIT: didn't realize you made a thread just for this. Looking at it now.

Thanks Casey!

Hi.

I'm new on tuning so I don't know if you could help me. I'm from Peru. Now I'm trying to learn as much as posible through this forums, but sometimes ir hard to understand some things without asking.

I have the same car 02 USDM, stock turbo, catless aftermarker header, catless downpipe and catback exhaust 3". Blox Racing MBC and now just arrived a CAI.

If I consider to flash my car with the 19psi MAP you made, what should I look or monitor in my car to don't blow my engine? I mean what parameters to monitor and what range they should be to be safe. I live in a city with an altitude of 2500 meters.

Don't have the walbro 255lph, is this part mandatory for this MAP?

Thanks and hope not to bother with this questions.

Best regards,
Luiz