gabedude banned at NASIOC

gabedude · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 5:29 pm

Bullwinkle1983 wrote:

Wow. Just wow. I rarely venture out of the NASIOC Technical forums, but even just a quick search through the TXIC forums made it quite evident how much favoritism and sexism are rampant.

Gabe -- I think many many "home tuners" just like yourself understand exactly what happened here.

One positive to this situation is, thanks to Bill's great posts in the "07 STI down in compression" thread, any relatively technical NASIOC member who would like to look at all the facts regarding the 07 STI will be able to make an informed decision regarding tuning.

Thanks for the support man. It really helps me to know that my advice is still wanted by people.

Gabe

gabedude · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 5:33 pm

HndaTch627 wrote:

gabe: i know it's too late to matter, but normally when we see ring lands cracked like that it's from piston overspeed(mis-shifting). To me it sounds like subaru may have underestimated the strength of their new pistons and the loads that would be exerted on them at speed. This also may be why SOA has discontinued production of oversized pistons for the 2.5L blocks. Once again it seems as though subaru is trying to dodge their problems by passing them off on the end user.

Oh...and TXIC needs to burn, hell even the midwest which used to be a huge group of friends is nothing but a pissing contest between 3 shops now.

oh...as far as Al goes, please don't get me started.

I spoke with a friend in Austin who is getting his 07 FXT block rebuilt (it lasted 6k) and he is just getting the 100MM pistons and having a machine shop bore match it and assemble the whole long block (including timing belt install, etc). This adds about 600-800 bucks to my build though, but it will avoid the piston slap and my motor will be quiet, plus I won't have to worry about the timing belt, etc. I guess it is worth it. I just want a strong motor, but I don't have an unlimited budget.

Turbo_Mike · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 5:44 pm

Gabe, the A bores and the B bores are only like .003" difference. Its not even close to .5 mm, its barely .1mm (its .0762mm max)

The difference is only with the calibration of the boring machine at the factory, to make up for tool wear. Its not that big of a difference. Its way less than the allowable spec of piston to wall clearance. And you can put A pistons in a B bore and vise versa. Its just gonna be a little slappy when its ice cold and then it goes away, which usually happens with most aftermarket forged pistons anyway......

gabedude · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 5:53 pm

Ok so I can do this myself. Just get the 99.5MM pistons, hone the suckers, and drop them in. I am still on the fence though. Do I get it built by a machine shop or build it myself and deal with piston slap? Also, do you guys crack open the block when you replace your pistons? I have already removed two rods, so it is gonna be a bitch to TQ those back down without cracking the block open. I am pretty sure my main bearings are good, but I do want to replace the rod bearings at least. Ugh, I guess I'll just take it to a shop and pay the $$$ to turn my parts into a longblock. That way I can replace the main bearings as well and get the correct clearances with the 100mm pistons (and the other benefits of just getting it back already assembled). I can have them replace the valve stem seals too. I have a spring compressor, but if I were to do that I would end up re-lapping the valves. I can easily see this turning into a 3 month project putting the motor back together myself. If I take it to a shop, it will be a 3 week wait, then I just get a longblock back to drop in.

Turbo_Mike · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 6:10 pm

lol yeah you dont take the rods off to take the pistons out, or back in. I've done a few EJs now and never split the case. I'm going to be changing the crank on mine, so its gonna be coming apart this time.

gabedude · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 6:13 pm

Yeah it was easy to do and I did want to look at the bearings so I did it. I am thinking I am just gonna get it done right and have my local builder do it. I am ordering 100MM CP's then. Hopefully the walls stand up.

wallyman424 · **Joined:** Wed Apr 11, 2007 10:39 am **Posts:** 1

Gabe,

I've been running your maps since about 1500 miles. I've currently got 16k on the car, and its strong as ever. Nasioc is full of a bunch of fools for the most part. Sometimes the mods there can be more pigheaded than the members.

Don't sweat it man.

- Wally

gabedude · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:44 pm

Ok look at this. The replacement block had cast pistons, but has steel liners! About 3-4mm thick, recessed at the top (at TDC you can see the top ring). It seems like it is a steel alloy, not iron.

Thoughts? Do I have an 08 STI block?

mickeyd2005 · **Joined:** Wed Oct 25, 2006 12:32 am **Posts:** 2950

Do you have a P/N for the short block?

gabedude · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:38 pm

gabedude · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:39 pm

mickeyd2005 wrote:

Do you have a P/N for the short block?

Where is it at? I will look and take a pic.

gabedude · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:36 am

Ok I did a web search for B25C EJ25 and I get chinese and tw sites... :shock:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&clie ... tnG=Search

gabedude · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:11 am

Nevermind. The forged steel liners are on STI engines.

http://www.acurazine.com/forums/archive ... 95950.html

Quote:

2006 Subaru Impreza® WRX® STI®
Specifications
Body 5-passenger sedan with blister-fender design
Engine Horizontally opposed (“boxer”), turbocharged/intercooled
Block Specially reinforced die-cast aluminum with integral forged steel cylinder liners, five
main bearings, semi-closed deck cylinder design
Cylinders 4
Displacement 2,457 cc (150 cu. in.)
Bore x Stroke 99.5 x 79 mm (3.92 x 3.11 in.)
Heads/Valvetrain Aluminum alloy cylinder heads with double overhead belt-driven camshafts (DOHC),
four valves per cylinder, Subaru AVCS (Active Valve Control System) variable valve
timing and sodium-filled exhaust valves
Compression ratio 8.2:1
Horsepower 300 @ 6,000 rpm
Torque 300 lb.-ft. @ 4,000 rpm
Fuel/Induction

Turbo_Mike · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:15 am

Yup.. I was gonna say, thats stock....

reddoak · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:18 am

Wha?!?! I'm gonna run over to TXIC and inform them you didn't know everything...

That ought to chum the waters a bit. :twisted:

Seriously, what a mess. Thanks for the tunes and tweaks over the last few months, and I'm sorry NASIOC turned out like it did for you. It's a shame that personalities can get in the way of common interests. Most of us have our cars as hobbies, I prefer to keep mine that way, a nice enjoyable hobby I can share with like minded people.

I'm sure any interesting topics that come up there will surface here, as well. And with a much higher S/N ratio.

RomRaider

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